Growing Garlic in the Fall


When it comes to growing garlic, timing can be everything. First, when you receive your garlic bulbs, do NOT separate them until you’re about to put them in the ground.

If you cannot plant them right away, put them in a dark, cool spot. This will prevent premature sprouting. Separating the bulbs from the clove prematurely will allow the root nodules to dry out. Meaning it will take longer for the bulbs to set roots. Also, determine whether you’re planting top setting or underground garlic – you can learn more about these two types of garlic here

Garlic is a hardy root vegetable. In most cases, it will perform much better when subjected to severe winter conditions. Many varieties prove to be the most flavorful following a harsh winter. So, the trick when growing garlic is to plant early enough for the seeds (cloves/sets) to establish a good root system. But not so early that the plants have time to send up mature shoots before the onset of winter halts growth completely. A little above-ground growth won’t hurt, but you don’t want the formation of bulbs to start. The experts suggest planting your garlic seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the first hard freeze in your area. You can find your first frost dates here

What Next?

Loosen and prepare your soil with compost or organic material worked in. This will provide suitable nutrition and give your fall-planted garlic a healthy start. Plant the garlic clove with the root end facing down, about 4 to 8 inches apart and 2 to 3 inches deep. Garlic cloves planted closer together will produce smaller bulbs in greater numbers. Those planted farther apart will produce fewer bulbs but with larger cloves. Once the ground freezes, cover the entire bed with 3 to 4 inches of leaves or hay, avoiding straw, as mites found in straw can attack the garlic. This will conserve moisture, provide insulation and control weed growth until spring arrives.

Now What?

You wait. Sit in front of the fire. Make snowmen with the kids. Indulge in evenings with hot cocoa and good movies and just when you think winter couldn’t last any longer, spring will arrive. And you will already have done the hard part when it comes to your garlic crop.

Now, gently rake the leaves or straw off the new sprouts popping up. Apply some organic fertilizer and harvest when ready! In wetter areas, you may not want to mulch throughout the season. But if it dries out, re-mulching will help to conserve moisture, control weed growth and moderate soil temperatures. Garlic does not appreciate competition in the form of weeds or grass. Nor does it care for hot summer temperatures, so adapt these suggestions as needed for your particular area.

As for watering, garlic requires somewhat even moisture throughout the season, though it is better to let it dry out some during the last few weeks before harvesting. Not enough watering will result in undersized bulbs, while too much watering affects the storage quality of the bulbs, shortening garlic’s shelf life. It is better to stop watering earlier than to overwater later.


Growing Garlic: When Can I and How Do I Harvest?

The time to harvest will vary. It depends upon your zone and the growing conditions of any particular season. The only sure way to know is to regularly check the bulbs, feeling for the bumps of the cloves through the wrappers of the mature bulbs. Most gardeners will harvest starting in July, with the lion’s share being harvested in mid-to-late August. This is one crop with no set times; your experience, and trial and error, are the best gauges.

Garlic does bruise kind of easily, so be careful when harvesting. Use a flat, narrow-bladed shovel to loosen the soil around the plants, and then lift the plants by hand. If harvesting on a sunny day, the bulbs can actually become sunburned, with some varieties changing flavor in the sun. Move your garlic bulbs to a cooler location, out of direct sunlight as you harvest.


If you’ve harvested young or new season, immature garlic, you will want to store it in the refrigerator. Use it within a week or so. These cloves will have a more subtle flavor and can be used as you would leeks or onions. For mature garlic, you will want to dry it well, after washing the bulbs and roots. You can hang the bulbs from their stalks if you wish. The area should be dry, shady and well-ventilated. The drying process taking more than a week, but it will enable you to store it for an extended period.

Excited to start your very own garlic patch? Check out our selection here and get growing!

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  • Reply
    David Widmer
    November 8, 2012 at 10:32 am

    I’ve planted my garlic according to the planting-time “map” furnished by U. Maine. Alas!! The shoots have already come up! about 6-8 inches high. First snow came last night (Nov. 7, ’12). Have I lost my crop? Anything I can do now?
    Would appreciate your reply, with thanks,
    David N. Widmer

    • Reply
      November 13, 2012 at 9:55 am

      David, congratulations on your garlic crop! What you need to do is cover the plants with 6-10 inches of straw. In the spring, you can uncover them.

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